As a full-service heating contractor, we strongly encourage you to be vigilant with annual heating maintenance. Without proper maintenance, a heat pump, furnace or boiler might last only half as long as a well-maintained unit. Don’t tempt fate by skimping on annual service. We offer an economical, yet comprehensive maintenance agreement that we call our Cool Care Service Agreement. With our maintenance agreement you’ll receive:
You might guess it from the name: the heat exchanger is the part of your furnace that actually heats the air your blower motor pushes through the furnace. It consists of a chamber in which the heat energy produced by natural or propane gas is transferred to the forced air. At the same time, this part also includes a vent through which the gases themselves are safely removed from the unit and the air that enters your home. Because of these gases, a problem with your heat exchanger needs to be dealt with promptly. Over time, cracks in the exchanger can result in carbon monoxide leaks. Taking care of the problem once again means understanding the existence of a range: repairing your heat exchanger can cost as little as $100, but a full replacement may cost up to $1,200.
Given the broad price ranges above, it's easy to recognize that the cost of your furnace repair varies drastically based on which parts need attention. As a result, it makes sense to gain a better understanding of the parts that heat your home, and how much they cost to repair. Repairing or replacing your furnace’s blower motor can cost you anywhere between $150 and $450, depending on the extent of the damage. Heat exchanger repair costs can vary greatly, from as little as $100 for a simple fix to as much as $1,200 for a full replacement. Repairing a furnace igniter will only cost you $300 at most, while flame sensor repairs generally fall between $80 to $250. The average cost to repair your Thermostat will range from $108 to $282.
It isn’t unusual for a heat pump to ice-up in really cold weather, but it’s defrost cycle should kick on periodically to melt the ice. If the condenser unit of the heat pump is frozen up and the defrost cycle doesn’t melt the ice, turn it off. Make sure none of the return-air registers are blocked, and check the filter to make sure it isn’t clogged. If there doesn’t seem to be a problem with air flow to the unit, see more information at Heat Pump Cold Weather Problems or call an HVAC service professional.
Before opening the electrical cover on the A/C unit, be sure to shut off all power to the compressor unit and the indoor furnace or air handler, and verify that it is off. Note that this may mean shutting off a circuit breaker that serves the furnace and air handler, and then, near the compressor, pulling out the disconnect block (or shutting off the 220-volt power) to the outdoor compressor.
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The contactor (relay) and start/run capacitor(s) (see illustration below) fail most often and are inexpensive. So it’s a safe bet to buy and install those parts right away, especially if your air conditioning service unit is older than five years. The condenser fan motor can also fail, but it runs about $150 — hold off buying that unless you’re sure that’s the culprit.
Have you noticed that your A/C isn’t working as well as it could be? Perhaps there is an unexplained noise coming from the unit, or it doesn’t keep your home at the correct temperature. In these circumstances, a competitively priced repair is vital. It’s unlikely the problem will resolve on its own, so if you suspect there’s an issue, one call to us is all it takes.